Friday morning, I was up at 4am in order to meet a few secondees and Nolan, a local Bardi man who took us out mudcrabbing!!! What an adventure! Broome is one of those places that you definitely need a local to show you all the right spots. Crabbing consists of waiting for the tide to be out, finding a crab hole amongst all the mangroves (which can be somewhat hidden until you know what to look for). Then you check if there is a crab in the hole by poking around with a long metal pole with a hook at the end. If there is a crab hiding, then comes the process of trying to get it out. We used a machete in order to cut the mangrove roots and mud from around the hole to make it bigger and more accessible. Then it’s pretty much a brute-ish job of reaching in and trying to figure out which way the crab is positioned…..no way I was doing this. These things are mad as hell and fighting for their lives with their very strong pinchers! They also dig in the mud with their legs and hold on to the roots to try to prevent you from dragging them out. They really make you work for it. The crabs are pretty huge and heavy (up to 8 lbs), and they are brutal with each other (will kill and eat each other if in contact). Another fun fact – the females have about 1 million little babies!! The Aboriginals don't kill the females (unless they are at the end of their life); in fact we put several back in the water that were female or too small.
The local Aboriginal people (the Bardi in particular) have been mudcrabbing for centuries and have it down to an art. Nolan took all the crabs home to prepare them, and then picked us up for a beach sunset feast later that night after we all somehow slogged through the workday. This was quite a wonderful opportunity to spend some time with an impressive leader whose time is very precious – quite an experience.
Today one of my “Broomies” and I went into town for the markets (nothing too special except for the food) and a stop to walk around on Cable Beach. Then all three of us got take-away fish n chips and some wine, and went to watch the famous “Staircase to the Moon” from the vantage point of the golf course. This only happens during a full moon at low tide, for about 8 months of the year. The full moon rising over the flats reflect a “staircase” looking allusion. I wasn’t sure how impressed I would be, but it was pretty cool. Not to mention someone playing music from their car had the mood just right. They played “Over the Rainbow” by that Hawiian guy with the long name and “Hallelujah” by Jeff Buckley. For me it was a special quiet moment of reflection on just where I am and how I got here. And maybe even a little of where I want to go.....but that's getting pretty deep for this blog. Til next time :)
He got pulled out of his hole and was pretty damn pissed about it. |
Nolan, our guide and pro-crabber. |
The "after" shot: yum yum it was worth it!! |
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