Broome time

As I am coming to the end of my secondment with my partner organisation, I realise I haven’t really explained why/what I am doing here or talked about Broome or the Kimberley much. Time is really winding down now at the organisation – I only have a few days left in the office and have already presented my draft report to the CEO. After I finish off with his comments and finalise the report, then on Wednesday the Broome group will fly back to Kununurra for a larger group debrief (and a sidetrip that I’ve organised – a scenic flight over the Bungle Bungles for 6 of us!).

The organisation that brought me here – Jawun (pronounced “Jah-win”) – specialises in corporate and Indigenous partnerships. They essentially act as the agent to bring corporate, philanthropic and Indigenous organisations together to build the capability of Indigenous people and organisations across Australia. My company (KPMG) and many others (such as NAB, Qantas, BCG, etc) send volunteers who have applied and been through an interview and selection process. Jawun has worked with the organisations to find their project or resource needs, and then matches up the people – trying to get the right skills in the right roles at the right organisations. KPMG and the other companies not only pay our full salaries while we’re here, but also all the travel and accommodation costs. In a way they are donating not just money, but instead their most valuable resource – their people. (I know that sounds so lame but it’s true! I am away from my “normal” job for which I get paid and could be charging clients for; so it is kind of a big deal for KPMG to let me go away.)

Broome itself is a cute little town with basically 2 little main streets of cafes, businesses, shops, and banks. The permanent population is approx 15,000 but this swells up to 45,000 during busy tourist season. Broome is 1,400 miles north of Perth and yes….that’s in the SAME state (Western Australia)!!! Sometimes the distance of this country takes my breath away. I consider myself pretty lucky that my office is in the town of Broome, whereas most of my colleagues are stuck out in the Industrial Park outside the town. The best part of the office is that it is really close to the airport (which is in the middle of the town) and planes literally look like they’re going to land in the window! The second best part was the cute little puppy that was being fostered in the office for my first week.

See Broome at the top center of map

I helped take care of little George when foster mumwas in meetings,
even when he was super naughty he was super cute

The town has an interesting history – it was founded in the 1880s because of the pearling industry (but has of course been inhabited by Aboriginal people for 40,000+ years), there was a “pearling boom” in which many Japanese, Chinese, Malay, Koepangers, Filipino and Europeans flocked to make their fortunes. This unique multicultural population of pearl industry workers joined with the local Aboriginal people and Europeans to work on up to 400 Pearling Luggers that sailed out of Broome. It was a dangerous occupation which claimed many lives and there is a Japanese cemetery and a Chinese cemetery to prove it. The town still has an interesting mix of asian influence as well as a large indigenous population (and pearling is still important...there are about 10 very expensive shops. Broome was bombed several times during WWII and the town was ripped apart when the Japanese were sent to internment camps. From “Broome History”:

“Australia instantly joined America in declaring war on the Japanese and almost immediately, all pearling activity ceased in Broome. Men rushed to join the war effort and the industry’s labour pool vanished overnight as Japanese residents were interred in camps.

Since Broome’s livelihoods relied heavily on the skill and experience of Japanese divers this was an economic death knell for the pearling industry and the town. The residents of Broome were suddenly faced with rounding up and interring friends and employees simply because they were Japanese. Unlike other towns, Broome’s Japanese population made up a good portion of the towns inhabitants and many had been born and raised in Australia and had no ties to Japan. Although they complied with the internment policy, Broome, residents tried to make life as easy as possible for the Japanese.”

I don’t know why I’m so fascinated with this part of Broome history…and world history. I can’t imagine a world with concentration camps like in WWI or internment camps like in WWII. Yet we are still essentially doing the same things (many of us are just too naïve to see it or admit it) while this war rages on and racism is still happening. I am not on a political rant. I am just looking to the past and seeing our present for what it is.

Japanese Cemetery in Broome

Last weekend was great with the camping in Cape Leveque, then this week has been hectic for everyone trying to complete their projects to the very best of their abilities. Tuesday night we won 2nd place (again) at the Zee-Bar Quiz Night and Wednesday had a dinner with one of the CEOs. Thursday night a few of us girls went to the famous weekly "Wet T-Shirt Contest" at the Oasis (where all the backpackers stay) - no none of us participated but it is quite the tradition in Broome, and Thursday night is the biggest night of the week (and it was definitely hopping)! Friday night I went to a Youth Presentation for a Yawaru youth committee and heard a wonderful guest speaker. Today I was at the markets, spent some well-deserved time at the pool, and watched the West Coast Eagles (AFL) get beat.

General thoughts: I am feeling tired. Interestingly, I didn't know I would care SO much about producing an amazing piece of work and wanting to impress my organisation and CEO. I knew I would do a good job because that is who I am, but I honestly wasn't sure I would be so adamant about approaching it like any other paying client. My parents raised me right. :) As I approach the flight back to Kununurra to see the whole group, I realise that I've sort of forgotten about some of them. That seemed so long ago that we were all together. That may have sounded rude. In some ways I'm excited to see (some of) them, and in some ways I wish I could skip it and just have my vacation here in Broome, and then get back to my real life. I like "doing" things....I get sick of having to "talk" about things. Which is what a debrief is, "talking" about things I've already done, when I'm just ready to get on to the next amazing thing I have planned. Getting some closure is important though, plus how can we change the future if we don't take the time to talk and learn any lessons from past experiences? (See what I did there?)

Cape Leveque Camping

This week has been quite hectic and fun! Upon writing this I have literally fallen asleep in front of my computer like a narcoleptic, as I have just returned from camping up in Cape Leveque. But hopefully I can give you the rundown. A week ago (last Sunday) I spent kayaking in the Indian Ocean for a few hours and swimming around on the rocks. Over the course of the week, I worked (of course), but also finally saw some live music at the Roey (a famous-ish live music venue/ bar here in Broome). We were lucky enough to see Steve Pigram of the Pigram Brothers who are a pretty well-known Aboriginal band (country / folk music). I also had dinner at one of my co-worker’s houses and we had a great discussion on how the James Price Point debate has really torn the towne of Broome apart and pitted even family members against each other. JPP is the proposed location of the Woodside LNG (liquefied natural gas) processing facility north of Broome. Possibly more on that later, I'm a bit afraid to write anything in fear of having my tires slashed if I seem to lean one way or the other!

Then on Friday we finally set off for the remote area of Cape Leveque, which is at the northernmost tip of the Dampier Peninsula, to camp for the weekend. Six of our group of 8 went, and we were allowed to use my organisations’ 4x4, a “Troopie” or troop carrier. It saved us a ton of money on a 4x4 rental. We had all our swags and tents tied to the roof-rack, then 4 of us sitting on the bench seats in back (around the outside) with all the rest of our bags and gear. The road to Cape Leveque is only paved about half the way (the northern half from Beagle Bay to the top), and the rest is quite a bumpy gravel / pindan / sand road. Sitting in the back of the troopie on a bumpy road in sweltering heat was fun for about 20 minutes…too bad it was a 2.5 hour trip (240km north of Broome)!! But it is all just part of the outback adventure!!

Road trip in the troopie....of course I put the beer next to me for safekeeping

Despite 4 of the 6 tents (borrowed from an organisation) being without tent poles, we still had a great time. Lesson learned: always check for tent poles. Saturday was spent at the beach and generally relaxing for the most part. In the evening, 4 of us decided to go on a sunset cruise. We had the boat to ourselves and the captain was a laid back guy who just seemed to be out to enjoy the day as well. We saw 3 amazing whales - 2 males competing for the attention of the female (take notes, boys!!!). They were all breaching like crazy and it was a thrilling sight to behold, especially so close. We were within 60 meters – I’ve never been so close to whales before; it was breathtaking. We also saw a dolphin and a hammerhead shark, which turned directly for the boat in a “Jaws”-like moment and caused some squealing from both the female and male members of our party. We also threw a few lines out for fish and within a minute had both lines full of tuna – I had the first catch of the day (of 2) and reeled in a big mackerel tuna….my arms were actually tired! I have to note here that the other 2 people had stayed back to go fishing – without avail – and here we were just randomly catching tuna without even trying! Andrew had been fishing for the previous 3 days and still hasn’t even had a bite hahahah :)  Isn’t that life.

This is what happens when you don't have tent poles

Humpbacks playing around

Amazing

Our Hammerhead named Jaws.....or Hammie

Sunset over Cape Leveque

Expert fisherwoman

Once back in Broome, there was quite a bit of smoke and we were detoured a few miles from our hotel to allow for some bushfire fighting. The fire was right up to the road and it was a reminder that this paradise of the Kimberley does have a real problem with bushfires and bushfire management.

General feelings: Had a great, but tiring weekend. I can’t believe I only have 7 more working days at my organisation. Time has really flown by and I’m feeling all sorts of things: I want to do a great job on my project but feeling there’s not enough time for what they want, sad that I haven’t had more interaction with the community and Aboriginal people in general (except for a few at work and 2 CEOs of course, not too shabby), that I haven’t seen enough of Broome yet. Excited to spend some time here outside of work with a certain someone. Feeling like I might actually miss some of these yahoos that I’ve been working with (both on the Jawun side and the organisation side). Also feeling a bit lonely. I think I’m homesick for Perth of all places. I was gone for the entire month of July, then back for 3 weeks, then left again for 6, which wasn’t really enough time to catch up with everyone properly (and do my job)….I’m not complaining at all!! But haven’t been settled anywhere for awhile now and I’m not sure where I’m feeling homesick for anymore. Weird feeling. Is this how it’s going to be now for me? Feeling not sure where my “home” is (well, it will always be Crandon to be honest). We were talking about sleeping in your own bed and I haven't really felt that since Chicago. Well this is quite the adventure and who cares which bed I call home?

You can have your crab and eat it too

To be honest, Monday through Thursday just felt a bit like regular workdays….work, grocery shopping, make dinner and lunches, etc. I'm used to working in client offices all the time so this doesn't feel that different to me. Quite a different story for some of my Jawun colleagues who are not accustomed to project work or being away from all their comfortable chairs, coffee cups, and offices. Wednesday evening we had a little fun at Zee-Bar for dinner and a few Matso's ginger beers, and ended up partaking a little quiz nite action. Thursday evening we had a BBQ for our supervisor, Rose, since she was leaving Broome the following day. Now we're on our own!!! (To be honest it's easier now because we have an extra car between the 8 of us!)

Friday morning, I was up at 4am in order to meet a few secondees and Nolan, a local Bardi man who took us out mudcrabbing!!! What an adventure! Broome is one of those places that you definitely need a local to show you all the right spots. Crabbing consists of waiting for the tide to be out, finding a crab hole amongst all the mangroves (which can be somewhat hidden until you know what to look for). Then you check if there is a crab in the hole by poking around with a long metal pole with a hook at the end. If there is a crab hiding, then comes the process of trying to get it out. We used a machete in order to cut the mangrove roots and mud from around the hole to make it bigger and more accessible. Then it’s pretty much a brute-ish job of reaching in and trying to figure out which way the crab is positioned…..no way I was doing this. These things are mad as hell and fighting for their lives with their very strong pinchers! They also dig in the mud with their legs and hold on to the roots to try to prevent you from dragging them out. They really make you work for it. The crabs are pretty huge and heavy (up to 8 lbs), and they are brutal with each other (will kill and eat each other if in contact). Another fun fact – the females have about 1 million little babies!! The Aboriginals don't kill the females (unless they are at the end of their life); in fact we put several back in the water that were female or too small.

The local Aboriginal people (the Bardi in particular) have been mudcrabbing for centuries and have it down to an art. Nolan took all the crabs home to prepare them, and then picked us up for a beach sunset feast later that night after we all somehow slogged through the workday. This was quite a wonderful opportunity to spend some time with an impressive leader whose time is very precious – quite an experience.

Today one of my “Broomies” and I went into town for the markets (nothing too special except for the food) and a stop to walk around on Cable Beach. Then all three of us got take-away fish n chips and some wine, and went to watch the famous “Staircase to the Moon” from the vantage point of the golf course. This only happens during a full moon at low tide, for about 8 months of the year. The full moon rising over the flats reflect a “staircase” looking allusion. I wasn’t sure how impressed I would be, but it was pretty cool. Not to mention someone playing music from their car had the mood just right. They played “Over the Rainbow” by that Hawiian guy with the long name and “Hallelujah” by Jeff Buckley. For me it was a special quiet moment of reflection on just where I am and how I got here. And maybe even a little of where I want to go.....but that's getting pretty deep for this blog. Til next time :)

He got pulled out of his hole and was pretty damn pissed about it.

Nolan, our guide and pro-crabber.

The "after" shot: yum yum it was worth it!!