The light at the end of the Joburg Tunnel

The last few weeks have really been a blur. Not because I’ve been having so much fun; rather the kind of blurry-eyed non-awareness that happens when you work 12-16 hour days and then crawl into bed and then get up and do it again and again and again. But as I am fast-approaching the end of this project (Friday!!), I can look back now that I have a little more time to reflect on things. In fact, I’m hoping with (much) more time I can look back on my time in Johannesburg and on this project with more (than zero) positivity than I feel right now. That’s usually how it goes in life – you end up learning the most from the bad experiences.

There have been some good times! I did manage to go out to dinner with people a few nights, and one Friday night we even went out dancing to live music. This live music club happened to be in a mall. You heard me, a mall. I went dancing in a mall. South African life seems to revolve around malls. They are safe and controllable and people feel more secure. It was great to hear live music though (even if all covers) – the only other live music I’ve heard was during the client’s end of year party. That was actually a lot of fun. I was having a terrible day, and went with 2 others to the cafeteria for a quick lunch - we have to eat everyday in the company-provided cafeteria because it’s not safe to walk down the block in complete daylight. Yes, it is nice that lunch is free but you do get sick of the same food for 6 weeks! Anyway, we walk into a complete off-the-hook Hawaiian-theme party with an awesome live Jamaican band and everyone dancing! Even though Hawaii and Jamaica aren’t the same thing, my mood changed in an instant. This is one of the many reasons why I love music. There's not too many things that have that power over me.

 

I also went on a tour of Soweto with several other KPMGers. This was a great, eye-opening experience – a must-do for anyone coming to Joburg. It was one of the highlights of the trip so far – it feels weird to talk about a “highlight” when what we saw was so heartbreaking in some parts. But sometimes it was also funny (trying their homemade milk-beer), sometimes empowering (Nelson Mandela’s house), sometimes sad (Hector Pieterson museum and learning about the Soweto Uprising), sometimes a bit scary even with a guide (white people walking into a bar full of black drunken Sowetan men and being grabbed and heckled).

 

Beyond that, the other educational thing I’ve done in the last few weeks was going underground at an operational platinum mine. This was for work to understand the client environment, but just as much for my amazement / amusement. I was very lucky to be invited along and was the only person from my team (even if it meant a day of lost time that I had to make up over the weekend). I was the only female – as we all know, mining is still a male-dominated, and some might say, sexist field. It was all in good fun, but I was straddled in between the legs of a man in the people-carrier (which you ride in down into the shaft), and separately was also offered assistance with my shower, and teased about getting muddy. It’s all just funny and I don’t take offense to those guys. They all also made sure I was ok and checked on me at various times and were quite chivalrous (being miles beneath the earth can be a scary experience). On a different note, I have been severely insulted as a woman on this engagement over and over, but that was not any of these guys. I know the difference between good-natured teasing and when I am being belittled in business and in a job I am clearly VERY good at. There are some very sexist men in South Africa and I’m not sure I’m ready to fully reflect on this issue yet. I’m not making a blanket statement, just telling you what I have blatantly experienced. Sometimes it’s clear that it is just “the luck of the draw” where a person is born.

 

Another awesome thing was that I got flowers. For no reason at all. I went on and on to all my co-workers (“did I mention my flowers?”) and they are all pretty sick of hearing about Chris. THEN what happens? My birthday comes along and I get more flowers!!! Which I have set up in our workspace so everyone can enjoy them. And more of the same, “have you seen my flowers?” Chris, I’m supposed to tell you that you’re making all the men look bad and all the women a bit jealous!

 

I have just moved out of the hotel (yet again, sigh) but this time I’ve moved into a co-workers granny flat which is so nice. I’ll be here until Chris arrives (only a week now!). I don’t think I’ll write again until after my wonderful travels are over, and I’m sure I’ll have lots of fun things to share and I’ll sound and feel more like myself. For now, I’ll share what’s on my mind of what I will and won’t miss about Jo’burg.

 

Won’t miss:

• The Africaans accent, how they say “yah” or “eh” at the end of everything – I don’t know why, the accent just never grew on me (no offense anyone….I don’t like New Jersey accents either). I love listening to Zulu though!
• The issues of Apartheid, it doesn’t matter that it ended in (only) 1994. It’s still very awkward for me to understand how and why. I don’t pretend to understand it. They have a long way to go.
• The weird feeling of having all black labourers. Most of the white people have black help in their homes. To me, it feels weird to have people “waiting” on you…..I’m not saying I wouldn’t do it, and I know that my friends’ employees are relatively well-paid and feed their entire families on this income, and their medical is all paid for. It’s unfair for someone coming in, who doesn’t understand everything, to make any comments on this.…..I don’t know, it’s just a hard issue and I grapple with it constantly while I’m here. So I’m looking forward to getting away from my “grappling” I guess
• My constant concern for my safety and a constant heightened awareness (whether it is warranted or pounded into me by everyone else, I’m not sure). There are seemingly endless stories of muggings, car jackings, “smash and grabs”, rapes. Last week we were informed that one of our co-workers got accosted in her car on her way home (luckily she got away). Generally the rule is, no cell phones or your purse on the seat next to you - always put everything in the trunk of the car so people don’t try to get into your car at stop lights. Most people just run stop-lights at night.

Will miss:

• The cats at the zoo meowing at night, I could hear them from my hotel
• South Africans call traffic lights “robots” – I mean, that’s just funny
• Biltong – like beef jerky but a million times better
• Braai – a South African barbeque
• Rusk – sort of like bready, crisp, granola biscuit; great for breakfast
• The service – slow compared to US, but gold-standard compared to Perth
• I will miss seeing black people – come on Perth! Where are all the black people? It will be strange to go back to Perth and only see mostly white faces. Not to generalise, but I miss their “energy”
• I will miss a few of the people I’ve met (notice how I didn’t say “all” haha). A few of the UK guys and SA girls have been pretty cool. And I’ll miss spending time with my favourite Russian-American in the whole wide world!

South African Adventure - week 3

I wish I had exciting things to tell you about my work week, but I don’t. I’m thankful to work and live in Australia (or the US).

Obviously the one exciting thing that happened this week was the US presidential election. Everyone here was asking me about it, from all countries. It’s one of those things that I find interesting about America and the rest the world. In the US, we might get some highlight coverage about election outcomes in other countries – particularly if there is violence involved. But often times US media doesn’t “bring in” a lot of world news. Neither does our education system (at least mine didn’t). Conversely, in most other countries, the news from the US and the presidential election are heavily covered (and a lot of other world news). I wish people would see that our news coverage put us at such a knowledge disadvantage in the US.

On Friday night, I went out to dinner with some other KPMGers at an African restaurant in Melrose Arch. It was more like an "African experience". We had our faces painted, listened to music, played with African instruments, and had a fantastic meal – even if it was all a bit “touristy”….but hey, that’s what I am! We even tried the ox-tail, which is a very South African thing to eat (it was good – like roast beef).

African princess

Saturday I had organised a trip for several of us out to the Rhino and Lion Park. What a fantastic day! I was a bit worried because I had set it up and I wasn’t sure what to expect. It’s about an hour drive out there so we were all hoping it was worth it – and it was! It is a large park that has many different types of animals roaming free (in general). It takes over 2 hours to drive around it (and you're not allowed out of your car for safety reasons). It even has 3 of the “Big 5” (referring to the big 5 famous African animals – the giraffe, buffalo, rhino, elephant, and lion). This park had buffalos, rhinos, and lions…not to mention tons of other typical African animals such as the eland, impala, mongoose, wildebeest, cheetahs, etc. It was a great day. I’m hoping to do at least 1 fun thing like that each weekend.

With baby white lions

Our friend Rhonda the Rhino. Of course I named her!

Tomorrow I have to check out of the executive apartments and go back to the Westcliff. There is no room for me here, not even a double to share with Kate. I am very sad about this, being away from the group and restaurants and shops is hard, especially without a car. But I guess it doesn’t really matter, and hopefully I don’t have to move anymore until I am packing up to go travelling - only 26 more days!

South African non-Adventure - Week 2

Week 2 has been sufficiently hectic. Every day, my co-worker David, from London, and I had a driver take us from the hotel to the office in downtown Joburg. We were the only 2 of our team in the hotel instead of the executive apartments. Every night I got a ride back to the hotel from one of my other co-workers with cars, usually past 7pm, and ordered room service for dinner. Sometimes I worked more or called people and sometimes I just went to bed. Here's a pic of the exterior of my hotel for the last 2 weeks:

The Westcliff

On Wednesday I had to be out at one of the mine sites for more meetings. It takes 3+ hours each way and leaves me with even less time for work or anything else. There were major strike actions again, and several people were again injured or shot by police. I hope I don’t have to go there again.

Friday was the day that I moved out of the hotel (after almost 2 weeks) and into an executive apartment, where the rest of the team also have apartments. Packed up my bags, got to work, and it was a good thing I called the apartments to check on my reservation (set up through KPMG). You guessed it, they had no idea I was coming and had no place for me! After several hours of panicking with the admins on my team, we got an apartment, but I will have to move again in a week – into a shared apartment (2BR 2 Bath) with my friend and co-worker, Kate. Kate and I get along great but it kind of sucks not to have your own space and we both have visitors coming. Plus this means she has to move yet again!! But at least I’m not homeless in Johannesburg, of all places. And it will be more fun with Kate around as we've already been roommates out on the game reserve :)

There are 41of my comrades on this project, with 18 travellers from outside South Africa. Those of us from other countries (India, US, UK, and now Australia) all stay at apartments near Melrose Arch (except for David who is still at the hotel). The apartments are really lovely, quiet, and secure. The KPMG group pretty much has the whole complex except for a few units. I feel sorry for these other people. Melrose Arch is a very safe and trendy area, and across the street is a secure outdoor shopping complex with shops and restaurants. And I can finally either get groceries or order takeout instead of room service. And I have a washing machine!!…..oh the small things in life.

Do I sound happy? You’re right, I do not. It isn’t really what I expected or hoped for, but I plan on making the most of it. Friday night we had some drinks as a group in one of the apartments for a birthday party. The younger kids went out to a club and the “more mature” crowd stayed in. I can't believe it, but I am now comfortably and happily part of the "more mature" crowd. Saturday was a bit of down time in the morning, a late lunch and grocery shopping with Kate, and then 5 of us watched a movie and ordered pizza for dinner. Today (Sunday), I went with 2 others to the Apartheid Museum, which was informative but sad and unbelievable. They also had a special exhibition about Nelson Mandela. The story of apartheid is too complex for this blog….too complex for my brain at this point. Maybe when I’ve had some time to digest and learn more, I can cover in a subsequent post. If you want to learn more: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Apartheid_in_South_Africa.



Apartheid Museum - "To be free is not merely to cast off one's chains,
but to live in a way that respects and enhances the freedom of others." - Nelson Mandela



The entrance to the Apartheid Museum

The absolute BEST thing that happened this week is that we worked it out so Chris can come over to visit at the end of the project!! Normally the policy is that international projects allow a flight home every three weeks, and all flights are business (or first) class. Instead of me flying back to Australia in the middle, Chris can fly here instead (and we're both flying economy). I worked it out with KPMG, Chris got approval from his work, and viola we're all set for him to fly over on 6 Dec and then we'll do some fun stuff for a week! :) Happy times. It's only a month away. A person can do almost anything as long as they know when the end is....it's when there's no end in sight that will drive a person crazy.

Right now I should be working instead of writing this blog. I am multi-tasking by doing my laundry, typing this blog, and warming up samosas in the oven for dinner. I am so glad I am in an apartment instead of the hotel! Hopefully this week will be productive, with less night terrors (for real), and next weekend I will do something fun like a Joburg and Soweto tour. I’ll keep you posted!

Signing off from South Africa

South African Adventure - week 1

My trip to South Africa honestly didn’t start out the greatest. It kind of came of out of the blue. An opportunity to do some work with a multi-country KPMG team from the US, India, UK, and South Africa (and now Australia) came up through a former co-worker and friend from Chicago who was already part of the project in South Africa. Within a few days I had talked to the engagement lead and was offered a role on the team – I just had to clear everything through Australia. I was a bit torn from the very beginning – I had only been back from Broome for 3 weeks, it would take me away from my honey, it seemed like a hard-core hours type of project, plus my health hadn’t been great over the last week or so. But it was a free trip to South Africa, which was Number Two on my travel list!!!! After some discussion, I decided I could make it work on Thursday, was notified of my flight on Friday night, and left on Sunday night. Not much notice!!

Chris was great enough to give me a ride to the airport – yet AGAIN – but he said the next time he sees me he’s going to attach a bungee cord to me so I can’t go too far away. At the airport I had a bit of trouble because the company only purchased a one-way ticket (a no-no when going to another country!) because we aren’t sure the exact date I’d be done. They let me on the flight, but gave me quite a scare that I may not be allowed into SA on arrival – either being turned away after an 11 hour flight or be required to pay a “fee”. At this point, I honestly wanted to walk out of the airport. Not my normal reaction for a trip - and it hasn't been the last time I've felt like that.

After all that, arrival in Johannesburg was actually a breeze. They barely looked at my US passport and didn't have customs that I could see. My driver picked me up from the airport bright and early at 6am after my overnight flight. One of the funniest moments of my trip so far was finding a pretty bra in the backseat of my driver’s car. He almost died of embarrassment. He was very glad I found it and not his wife!!! (He said his last passenger to the airport was repacking her suitcase in the car.) My first impression was that I couldn’t believe how hilly and green everything was. I know it seems stupid, but I didn’t expect “Africa” to look like that. I also couldn’t believe the hotel I was booked into, which is absolutely stunning. I'll be here until Friday when I can join the rest of the team in serviced apartments.

After a little nap I was showered and ready to go to the office by 10am. Too bad they weren’t ready for me until 4pm….slightly (very) annoying. But now the chaos has started. Now I’m based at my client site and it is quite hectic. I was able to catch up with my 2 Chicago girls on Tuesday night for a great dinner in Melrose Arch and then with a larger group from various projects on Thursday.

On Wednesday I had to attend a meeting out at one of the main platinum mine sites. I was a bit nervous to go, as there has been some unrest with workers’ strikes and police retaliation. But on the way there I got to see some shanty towns, which are a site unbelievable to most eyes. We drove up over this beautiful lush hill, and then there was a shanty town as far as the eye could see. I saw multiple versions of the same sadness and then of course near the mine site there are many places to live that the Westernised world would have a hard time calling a “house” – most of the ice shacks in my hometown were more liveable. Another concerning thing is because of where these shanty towns have been built, thousands of people run across the freeways on foot everyday and there are many accidents and fatalities.

Over my first weekend I was excited to do some sightseeing around Johannesburg, hoping it would raise my spirits and remind me why I actually chose to come here. However my plans quickly changed when 3 of us received an invitation to a private game farm with the family of one of our South African co-workers. It was such a fabulous weekend of seeing African wildlife (Giraffes! Ostriches! Worthogs! Impalas! Elands! Wildebeest!). It definitely deserves a more detailed blog post but I’m not sure I’ll get to it. For now, it’s the end of my first week and weekend in South Africa, and I have the typical “Sunday Night Panic” that I was so familiar with in Chicago. I miss Perth, my friends, my free time, my freedom in general - it is quite a dangerous place and not ok to be outside much. Feeling like a caged animal. And I mostly miss Chris (awwwwww). Now off to sleep, to dream of giraffes and beautiful sunsets.

Giraffe

Blue headed lizard on the tree

The real world rears its head

I wanted to post one last blog about Broome before I backtrack and talk about several trips I’ve taken over the year that I haven’t yet written about (I'm overwhelmingly behind!!). The last week of Jawun was hectic, followed by a week of lovely non-hectic time.

After we all finished up our projects, the “Broome group” flew back over to Kununurra to debrief with the entire Jawun mob who were spread between Kununurra, Halls Creek, and Warmun. A few of us got up early for a scenic flight over the Bungle Bungles, the Ord River, Lake Argyle and the Argyle Diamond Mine. The Bungles (official name Purnululu National Park), is a World Heritage Site to the north of Halls Creek and is famous for its orange and gray striped sandstone domes. Although I wish I could’ve done some camping or hiking in the vast park, I was glad I at least got to see it from the air – which was quite a spectacular sight.

Purnuluu

Purnululu (Bungle Bungle)

The debrief with the whole group was a long day, but actually more interesting than I was expecting and I enjoyed hearing what everyone did for their projects and the experiences they had. After the debrief, our last bit of group fun was a BBQ Boat ride and drinks on the Ord River. The following day (Friday), it was time to say goodbye to everyone at the airport and make my way back to Broome for a relaxing few days.

On the Ord

Last day with Jawun

Chris came up from Perth to spend a long weekend in Broome. You may have noticed by now that I’ve met someone pretty cool who is, to my family’s dismay, Australian. I don’t usually mention this type of thing in my blog, so please don’t harass him on Facebook! We had a great time doing some of the touristy things I didn’t do while working there…..camel ride on Cable Beach, guided stargazing (awesome!), sampling various restaurants, lounging by the pool, outdoor cinema; and I also got to show him a few of my favourite Broome things. Chris also planned a whole day out for me that included a massage, a scenic flight over Broome, and a nice dinner. I was impressed :)

Scenic flight view of Gantheaume Point and Cable Beach

Camels on Cable Beach

On a camel

Now that I’ve been back in Perth for almost a week, I’m starting to feel less overwhelmed by the people, the cars, the constant motion. And just think, this is Perth, not exactly NYC or Chicago. It was great to get away from it all and it has been a little hard to come back to normal life. I have to get dressed up for work again and wear normal shoes instead of my casual attire and flip-flops that were fine for work in Broome. I also blew-dry my hair for the first time in months and thought my head was on fire. But it is also a good thing to come back to normal life, too (since my life is pretty cool). I have to keep reminding people that I was not on vacation while I was in Broome, with the exception of a week at the end (a very annoying comment I’ve heard multiple times). My tan doesn’t help my argument though. Bring on the next adventure!

Broome time

As I am coming to the end of my secondment with my partner organisation, I realise I haven’t really explained why/what I am doing here or talked about Broome or the Kimberley much. Time is really winding down now at the organisation – I only have a few days left in the office and have already presented my draft report to the CEO. After I finish off with his comments and finalise the report, then on Wednesday the Broome group will fly back to Kununurra for a larger group debrief (and a sidetrip that I’ve organised – a scenic flight over the Bungle Bungles for 6 of us!).

The organisation that brought me here – Jawun (pronounced “Jah-win”) – specialises in corporate and Indigenous partnerships. They essentially act as the agent to bring corporate, philanthropic and Indigenous organisations together to build the capability of Indigenous people and organisations across Australia. My company (KPMG) and many others (such as NAB, Qantas, BCG, etc) send volunteers who have applied and been through an interview and selection process. Jawun has worked with the organisations to find their project or resource needs, and then matches up the people – trying to get the right skills in the right roles at the right organisations. KPMG and the other companies not only pay our full salaries while we’re here, but also all the travel and accommodation costs. In a way they are donating not just money, but instead their most valuable resource – their people. (I know that sounds so lame but it’s true! I am away from my “normal” job for which I get paid and could be charging clients for; so it is kind of a big deal for KPMG to let me go away.)

Broome itself is a cute little town with basically 2 little main streets of cafes, businesses, shops, and banks. The permanent population is approx 15,000 but this swells up to 45,000 during busy tourist season. Broome is 1,400 miles north of Perth and yes….that’s in the SAME state (Western Australia)!!! Sometimes the distance of this country takes my breath away. I consider myself pretty lucky that my office is in the town of Broome, whereas most of my colleagues are stuck out in the Industrial Park outside the town. The best part of the office is that it is really close to the airport (which is in the middle of the town) and planes literally look like they’re going to land in the window! The second best part was the cute little puppy that was being fostered in the office for my first week.

See Broome at the top center of map

I helped take care of little George when foster mumwas in meetings,
even when he was super naughty he was super cute

The town has an interesting history – it was founded in the 1880s because of the pearling industry (but has of course been inhabited by Aboriginal people for 40,000+ years), there was a “pearling boom” in which many Japanese, Chinese, Malay, Koepangers, Filipino and Europeans flocked to make their fortunes. This unique multicultural population of pearl industry workers joined with the local Aboriginal people and Europeans to work on up to 400 Pearling Luggers that sailed out of Broome. It was a dangerous occupation which claimed many lives and there is a Japanese cemetery and a Chinese cemetery to prove it. The town still has an interesting mix of asian influence as well as a large indigenous population (and pearling is still important...there are about 10 very expensive shops. Broome was bombed several times during WWII and the town was ripped apart when the Japanese were sent to internment camps. From “Broome History”:

“Australia instantly joined America in declaring war on the Japanese and almost immediately, all pearling activity ceased in Broome. Men rushed to join the war effort and the industry’s labour pool vanished overnight as Japanese residents were interred in camps.

Since Broome’s livelihoods relied heavily on the skill and experience of Japanese divers this was an economic death knell for the pearling industry and the town. The residents of Broome were suddenly faced with rounding up and interring friends and employees simply because they were Japanese. Unlike other towns, Broome’s Japanese population made up a good portion of the towns inhabitants and many had been born and raised in Australia and had no ties to Japan. Although they complied with the internment policy, Broome, residents tried to make life as easy as possible for the Japanese.”

I don’t know why I’m so fascinated with this part of Broome history…and world history. I can’t imagine a world with concentration camps like in WWI or internment camps like in WWII. Yet we are still essentially doing the same things (many of us are just too naïve to see it or admit it) while this war rages on and racism is still happening. I am not on a political rant. I am just looking to the past and seeing our present for what it is.

Japanese Cemetery in Broome

Last weekend was great with the camping in Cape Leveque, then this week has been hectic for everyone trying to complete their projects to the very best of their abilities. Tuesday night we won 2nd place (again) at the Zee-Bar Quiz Night and Wednesday had a dinner with one of the CEOs. Thursday night a few of us girls went to the famous weekly "Wet T-Shirt Contest" at the Oasis (where all the backpackers stay) - no none of us participated but it is quite the tradition in Broome, and Thursday night is the biggest night of the week (and it was definitely hopping)! Friday night I went to a Youth Presentation for a Yawaru youth committee and heard a wonderful guest speaker. Today I was at the markets, spent some well-deserved time at the pool, and watched the West Coast Eagles (AFL) get beat.

General thoughts: I am feeling tired. Interestingly, I didn't know I would care SO much about producing an amazing piece of work and wanting to impress my organisation and CEO. I knew I would do a good job because that is who I am, but I honestly wasn't sure I would be so adamant about approaching it like any other paying client. My parents raised me right. :) As I approach the flight back to Kununurra to see the whole group, I realise that I've sort of forgotten about some of them. That seemed so long ago that we were all together. That may have sounded rude. In some ways I'm excited to see (some of) them, and in some ways I wish I could skip it and just have my vacation here in Broome, and then get back to my real life. I like "doing" things....I get sick of having to "talk" about things. Which is what a debrief is, "talking" about things I've already done, when I'm just ready to get on to the next amazing thing I have planned. Getting some closure is important though, plus how can we change the future if we don't take the time to talk and learn any lessons from past experiences? (See what I did there?)

Cape Leveque Camping

This week has been quite hectic and fun! Upon writing this I have literally fallen asleep in front of my computer like a narcoleptic, as I have just returned from camping up in Cape Leveque. But hopefully I can give you the rundown. A week ago (last Sunday) I spent kayaking in the Indian Ocean for a few hours and swimming around on the rocks. Over the course of the week, I worked (of course), but also finally saw some live music at the Roey (a famous-ish live music venue/ bar here in Broome). We were lucky enough to see Steve Pigram of the Pigram Brothers who are a pretty well-known Aboriginal band (country / folk music). I also had dinner at one of my co-worker’s houses and we had a great discussion on how the James Price Point debate has really torn the towne of Broome apart and pitted even family members against each other. JPP is the proposed location of the Woodside LNG (liquefied natural gas) processing facility north of Broome. Possibly more on that later, I'm a bit afraid to write anything in fear of having my tires slashed if I seem to lean one way or the other!

Then on Friday we finally set off for the remote area of Cape Leveque, which is at the northernmost tip of the Dampier Peninsula, to camp for the weekend. Six of our group of 8 went, and we were allowed to use my organisations’ 4x4, a “Troopie” or troop carrier. It saved us a ton of money on a 4x4 rental. We had all our swags and tents tied to the roof-rack, then 4 of us sitting on the bench seats in back (around the outside) with all the rest of our bags and gear. The road to Cape Leveque is only paved about half the way (the northern half from Beagle Bay to the top), and the rest is quite a bumpy gravel / pindan / sand road. Sitting in the back of the troopie on a bumpy road in sweltering heat was fun for about 20 minutes…too bad it was a 2.5 hour trip (240km north of Broome)!! But it is all just part of the outback adventure!!

Road trip in the troopie....of course I put the beer next to me for safekeeping

Despite 4 of the 6 tents (borrowed from an organisation) being without tent poles, we still had a great time. Lesson learned: always check for tent poles. Saturday was spent at the beach and generally relaxing for the most part. In the evening, 4 of us decided to go on a sunset cruise. We had the boat to ourselves and the captain was a laid back guy who just seemed to be out to enjoy the day as well. We saw 3 amazing whales - 2 males competing for the attention of the female (take notes, boys!!!). They were all breaching like crazy and it was a thrilling sight to behold, especially so close. We were within 60 meters – I’ve never been so close to whales before; it was breathtaking. We also saw a dolphin and a hammerhead shark, which turned directly for the boat in a “Jaws”-like moment and caused some squealing from both the female and male members of our party. We also threw a few lines out for fish and within a minute had both lines full of tuna – I had the first catch of the day (of 2) and reeled in a big mackerel tuna….my arms were actually tired! I have to note here that the other 2 people had stayed back to go fishing – without avail – and here we were just randomly catching tuna without even trying! Andrew had been fishing for the previous 3 days and still hasn’t even had a bite hahahah :)  Isn’t that life.

This is what happens when you don't have tent poles

Humpbacks playing around

Amazing

Our Hammerhead named Jaws.....or Hammie

Sunset over Cape Leveque

Expert fisherwoman

Once back in Broome, there was quite a bit of smoke and we were detoured a few miles from our hotel to allow for some bushfire fighting. The fire was right up to the road and it was a reminder that this paradise of the Kimberley does have a real problem with bushfires and bushfire management.

General feelings: Had a great, but tiring weekend. I can’t believe I only have 7 more working days at my organisation. Time has really flown by and I’m feeling all sorts of things: I want to do a great job on my project but feeling there’s not enough time for what they want, sad that I haven’t had more interaction with the community and Aboriginal people in general (except for a few at work and 2 CEOs of course, not too shabby), that I haven’t seen enough of Broome yet. Excited to spend some time here outside of work with a certain someone. Feeling like I might actually miss some of these yahoos that I’ve been working with (both on the Jawun side and the organisation side). Also feeling a bit lonely. I think I’m homesick for Perth of all places. I was gone for the entire month of July, then back for 3 weeks, then left again for 6, which wasn’t really enough time to catch up with everyone properly (and do my job)….I’m not complaining at all!! But haven’t been settled anywhere for awhile now and I’m not sure where I’m feeling homesick for anymore. Weird feeling. Is this how it’s going to be now for me? Feeling not sure where my “home” is (well, it will always be Crandon to be honest). We were talking about sleeping in your own bed and I haven't really felt that since Chicago. Well this is quite the adventure and who cares which bed I call home?

You can have your crab and eat it too

To be honest, Monday through Thursday just felt a bit like regular workdays….work, grocery shopping, make dinner and lunches, etc. I'm used to working in client offices all the time so this doesn't feel that different to me. Quite a different story for some of my Jawun colleagues who are not accustomed to project work or being away from all their comfortable chairs, coffee cups, and offices. Wednesday evening we had a little fun at Zee-Bar for dinner and a few Matso's ginger beers, and ended up partaking a little quiz nite action. Thursday evening we had a BBQ for our supervisor, Rose, since she was leaving Broome the following day. Now we're on our own!!! (To be honest it's easier now because we have an extra car between the 8 of us!)

Friday morning, I was up at 4am in order to meet a few secondees and Nolan, a local Bardi man who took us out mudcrabbing!!! What an adventure! Broome is one of those places that you definitely need a local to show you all the right spots. Crabbing consists of waiting for the tide to be out, finding a crab hole amongst all the mangroves (which can be somewhat hidden until you know what to look for). Then you check if there is a crab in the hole by poking around with a long metal pole with a hook at the end. If there is a crab hiding, then comes the process of trying to get it out. We used a machete in order to cut the mangrove roots and mud from around the hole to make it bigger and more accessible. Then it’s pretty much a brute-ish job of reaching in and trying to figure out which way the crab is positioned…..no way I was doing this. These things are mad as hell and fighting for their lives with their very strong pinchers! They also dig in the mud with their legs and hold on to the roots to try to prevent you from dragging them out. They really make you work for it. The crabs are pretty huge and heavy (up to 8 lbs), and they are brutal with each other (will kill and eat each other if in contact). Another fun fact – the females have about 1 million little babies!! The Aboriginals don't kill the females (unless they are at the end of their life); in fact we put several back in the water that were female or too small.

The local Aboriginal people (the Bardi in particular) have been mudcrabbing for centuries and have it down to an art. Nolan took all the crabs home to prepare them, and then picked us up for a beach sunset feast later that night after we all somehow slogged through the workday. This was quite a wonderful opportunity to spend some time with an impressive leader whose time is very precious – quite an experience.

Today one of my “Broomies” and I went into town for the markets (nothing too special except for the food) and a stop to walk around on Cable Beach. Then all three of us got take-away fish n chips and some wine, and went to watch the famous “Staircase to the Moon” from the vantage point of the golf course. This only happens during a full moon at low tide, for about 8 months of the year. The full moon rising over the flats reflect a “staircase” looking allusion. I wasn’t sure how impressed I would be, but it was pretty cool. Not to mention someone playing music from their car had the mood just right. They played “Over the Rainbow” by that Hawiian guy with the long name and “Hallelujah” by Jeff Buckley. For me it was a special quiet moment of reflection on just where I am and how I got here. And maybe even a little of where I want to go.....but that's getting pretty deep for this blog. Til next time :)

He got pulled out of his hole and was pretty damn pissed about it.

Nolan, our guide and pro-crabber.

The "after" shot: yum yum it was worth it!!

Kimberley Adventures in Four-Wheel Drive

The last week has been very fun and very full on. Day 2 was a long, fun and hot day – the entire group of 25 went on a 4 wheel drive course, well really it was more of a “essentials of Kimberley driving” course. I dusted up on my manual driving ability (now using the left hand to shift!) and even gave a lesson to two others ("don't ride the clutch!!!"). I learned how to use snatch straps to pull vehicles out, how to change a tire, how to drive on various types of sand and gravel, etc. Funny how my country girl upbringing, along with snow driving, has served me well. Our instructor was a very interesting and smart man from the country near Alice Springs. He knew everything there is to know about differentials, shafts, all sorts of crazy smart mechanical talk…..yet he was barely literate and didn’t learn to read anything at all until his 30s when his wife taught him. He asked a few of us in the car that we must have been good in school to get our kinds of jobs and it ended up being quite an enlightening conversation.

Day 3 we spent a long day in the classroom, quite a change up from 4 wheel driving fun the day prior. We spent the evening getting ready for camping (groceries, equipment checks, packing). And then we were off early on Day 4!! Our caravan included 8 white four-wheel drives, quite a sight to behold.

We headed south on the Great Northern Highway from Kununurra and called into Warnum and Halls Creek. The first night was spent near a beautiful water hole and the second night on our guide’s family land closer to Hall’s Creek. “Going bush” means going out in the wilderness without the creature comforts, and we were definitely in the bush.

All 25 of us are spread out amongst various towns in the Kimberleys, and at various organisations in those towns. Jawun partners with Indigenous owned companies in communities that have the same values that Jawun promotes. One of the mob from Westfarmers is working with me at the organisation in Broome, which is an Aboriginal owned investment trust. Our supervisor for the next month came all the way to Halls Creek to pick the two secondees up and drive us across the Kimberleys to Broome. We stopped in to see an Aboriginal family on a station (ranch) to talk about some business ideas, and also jumped into a beautiful water hole to cool off. We made sure to pick up a stone, rub it all over ourselves especially underarms, and throw it into the water before jumping in. This is the Aboriginal way of letting the spirits know that you are coming into the water, sort of an introduction if you will. The spirits then know you are coming in and will protect you. If you haven’t been there in a long time, you should do the ritual again in case the spirit has forgotten your scent. This is a sacred place to the local mob, and we had approval from the elder woman. We camped an additional night at Windjana Gorge in the Leopold Ranges, which was spectacular. The big group camping was good fun, but having only 3 of us at this point was a real treat.

The next morning on the way to Tunnel Creek, we shredded a tire and my knowledge was put to the test!! The two boys made me do most of the work. Lazy bums. But I’m pretty confident in my ability to change a tire now! We finally got to Tunnel Creek and spent an hour wading around in waist deep water and exploring the tunnels and caves. Quite amazing really.

We finally hit up the famous Gibb River Road, which is a pass that is inaccessible during the “wet”. We are currently nearing the end of the dry, so it is getting hotter and more humid, the tourists are disappearing, and in a few months the wet will officially start and make some of this country inaccessible.

After a bumpy ride on the Gibb River Road, a quick stop for lunch in Derby and a look around the port, we arrived in Broome on Sunday evening feeling hot, sweaty, dirty, and wet (from wading around the tunnels with our shoes and clothes on). The rest of the Broome secondees were arriving by plane a few hours after we arrived, and it was nice to get the rooms sorted and have a very long shower!!

Monday morning was straight to work at the organisations we are all assigned to. A few of us caught the sunset at the famous Cable Beach and went for a little swim. However I was afraid of all the jellyfish I was seeing everywhere. Turns out these particular ones don’t sting so it would be fine - Can’t make any promises on the crocs though, sure hope I don’t get eaten!!!

Kununurra - Day 1

I was thinking about starting an actual *live* blog for this trip. Usually when I blog of my travels, I write down tons of notes, thoughts, comments, and funny things, and then when I get back I compile them into sensical stories or themes. That’s why it takes so long for me to post a blog when I get back (plus putting up some photos as well). I suppose that is what I’ve always thought writing a book would be like.

Well the journey I’m on this time is not just a trip or a holiday. This is an experience I’m likely not to forget. I’m going to be feeling happy, sad, excited, frustrated, annoyed, angry, hopeful, and despondent. I think I will try to write and actually post what I am feeling, what I did that day, things that bothered/astounded me etc. It doesn’t have to be long and I won’t get to it every night (as I’ll be camping in the bush etc). Also don't judge me, as feelings are just feelings and you have the benefit of not experiencing it for yourself.

Today I flew from Perth to Kununurra via Broome. When I arrived in Kununurra I was happily shocked at how swank our accom will be for the next 3 days. We had dinner as a group tonight. There are 25 of us total, with 8 to go to Broome, some to Warnum, Halls Creek, and some staying in Kununurra. I didn’t get to meet everyone at dinner and it was a bit overwhelming because there are so many. The group going to Broome should be fun and seem to be keen to see as much as possible too.

The "A" marks the spot where I am right now - still in Western Australia, but barely (almost to the border of the Northern Territory). More to come soon.

Tasmania

I am now 3 trips behind on my blog. So much for my new rule about blogging before leaving on the next trip!! This blog finds me almost ready for my next adventure - the much anticipated visit home after a year and a half. I'm sure I'll get around to writing about it sometime in the next year.

First things first - at Christmas 2011 I visited Tasmania, as I introduced in my previous blog. Tasmania is an island and an Australian state about 150 miles to the south of mainland Australia (although the state also includes hundreds of other smaller islands). The population is a mere 500,000 covering an area about the size of Maine or Portugal. It is named after Abel Tasman, the Dutch explorer who "found" it in 1642, although he originally named it Van Diemen's Land. The first settlers were the British in 1803, mostly convicts and their guards - around 75,000 convicts were transported to Tasmania between 1803 and 1853 (more on this later). It became a state in the Commonwealth of Australia in 1901.

I flew from Melbourne into Launceston, Jenni and Don's home - who so kindly were hosting and sharing their Christmas with me. After dropping my bags, we went for a jaunt in the Cataract Gorge, which is a beautiful gorge cut out by the Tamar River, literally steps from downtown Launceston. This was my introduction to Tasmania - very fitting - an effortlessly beautiful place no matter where you look. I should also mention here that I think that Jenni had literally scared the crap out of her sons by joking for several years about setting me up with either of them. Mind you, they had never met me until now and I'm sure they thought I was a weird, psycho, ugly, single crazy American out looking for an Australian husband. Poor guys. Who wants to be set up by their parents, right?!


Cataract Gorge in Launceston

Cataract Gorge in Launceston


Jenni took me on a bit of a tour to the Tamar Valley wine region and Bridestowe Lavender Farm, both beautiful areas. That night, we went to their friends' annual Christmas Eve party. Unfortunately I had a bit too much champagne at the party (nervous drinker!) and was quite hangover for Christmas the next day. My mom would be so proud. I am really so embarrassed, and didn't even want to write about it, but I couldn't just conveniently leave it out and have Jenni or the guys call me on it! I like the grog, it is in my Irish and German blood after all! Although I think we no longer have to worry about Jenni trying to set me up with either of her sons hahahah!! On Boxing Day (26th), we drove to their beach house at Turners Beach (near Devonport), then made our way to Cradle Mountain and Dove Lake for a hike and sightseeing. The area around Cradle Mountain is very beautiful and all the towns have a little something special.


Tamar Valley Wine Region in northern Tasmania



Bridestowe Lavender Estate



Don and Jenni with Mount Roland in the backdrop



Cradle Mountain

The following day we drove to Hobart, which is a pretty drive through little towns and farming communities. Hobart is the most populous city in Tassie, and the big annual event is the "Sydney to Hobart" yacht race which starts on Boxing Day in Sydney Harbour and ends in Hobart on the Derwent River amidst the Food and Wine Festival. This is considered to be the most famous and difficult maxi yacht race in the world and has been going since 1945! Hobart is beautifully situated on the Derwent River with Mount Wellington overlooking it all.


In Hobart where the yachts race in along the
Derwent River for the Sydney to Hobart Race



Amazing view of Hobart from Mount Wellington


We spent the night in Hobart, which was a bit of a walk down memory lane for Don and Jenni as they met in college there. While they went back to Launnie and get on with their lives, I rented a car to explore some places on my own. In about 2 hours I pulled into Port Arthur, on the Tasman Peninsula, one of the most significant and fascinating  places in Australia's settlement history. From 1833 to 1853 it was the destination for criminals (mostly Irish and British), often who were secondary offenders after their arrival at other prisons on mainland Australia. It was the most undesirable punishment. It seems as if Tasmanians don't really want to talk about this history - and there is SO much more to Tassie than Port Arthur - but it is fascinating and the top tourist attraction for a reason. I would assume that most Americans have even heard of Port Arthur, either through movies, or at least learned about it after the sad massacre in 1996.


Port Arthur from the water - this would be the way the prisoners
would have witnessed their new "home" for the first time

If you're curious about the history of Britain sending prisoners to Tasmania - it's a long story but here's a condensed version. London in the 1700's was a bad, bad place with terrible poverty and working hours, even for little kids (just read Charles Dickens). Lots of people were stealing wares and food. For a long time people, even children, were hanged for these crimes. As thinking evolved that execution was too harsh for some crimes, soon there was not enough room for all the criminals. "Transportation" became a common punishment for dealing with this, and 60,000 criminals were sent to the British colonies in America. Once the Revolution took place, Britain had to look elsewhere. Luckily for them, Captain Cook had just returned from his famous voyage that had claimed Australia for the British Empire. The "First Fleet" of 11 ships, with ~775 convicts, arrived in Port Jackson, NSW (now Sydney) on 26 Jan 1788 (after a first fruitless stop at Botany Bay). (January 26 each year is now celebrated as Australia Day.) As the population expanded (of both convicts and free settlers), more prisons were opened in various places, and Port Arthur was opened in 1833. It replaced a prison on the west side of Tasmania, Macquarie Island, which was particularly bad.

Being on the Tasman peninsula, the prison was naturally secure. The 30 meter wide Eaglehawk Neck, the strip of land connecting the peninsula to the rest of Tassie, was fenced, guarded by soldiers, mantraps, and half-starved dogs (even out in the water on little buoys!) Most of the time the convicts didn't even make it that far if they tried to escape. They had arrived in the hull of a boat after many weeks sailing, were disoriented, and surrounded by water and forests. If they tried escaping south, there is NOTHING except freezing water all the way to Antarctica. The only way to the Tasmanian mainland was Eagleneck Hawk to the north - but even if they happened to get "lucky" in their choice of direction, they weren't likely to make it past.


Beautiful Tassie - the bay to the right is one side of Eagleneck Hawk,
a 30 meter strip of land connecting the Tasman Peninsula to the rest of Tasmania


Port Arthur was an example of the "Separate Prison System" which switched its focus from physical to psychological punishments (using food  and solitary confinement rather than lashings, for example). Port Arthur was also where the boys were sent - some as young as 9 - to Point Puer, a separate small island just off the coast of the regular prison (this was the British Empire's first boys' prison). The other island near Point Puer is the "Isle of the Dead" where approx 1,600 bodies are buried. Entire volumes of books have been written about prison reform and the role (positive and detrimental) that Port Arthur played. It is an important part of Tasmanian and Australian history, and the tourist site is actually very well-done in my opinion.

My last few days were spent driving along the east coast and exploring Freycinet National Park, including the gorgeous hike up to the Wineglass Bay lookout. My drive also included Swansea, Bicheno, through amazing soaring mountains and forest-filled valleys, to Scottsdale and back to Launceston. I also got to see a Tasmanian Devil, which are endangered and only exist in Tasmania. Believe me when I say, these are very ugly animals.

I would love to go back and explore more of the west coast. I don't know when I'll fit that in though!!!


Tasmania - the purple line shows my route



Tasmanian Devil

The famed Wineglass Bay in Freycinet National Park

How the heck did I end up here, anyway?

The time for Christmas 2011 was approaching. Not just any Christmas, but my first Christmas away from my family. I'm 33 years old and have never been away from my family during the holidays. I may not have always been with them on Christmas morning, but always made the trip within a few days. For someone that travels as much as me, it's funny to think that I had spent 31 of 32 Christmases in Wisconsin - one year when I was like 14 the whole family did Christmas in Florida. For all intents and purposes, this was a big one for me. Chrissy #33 in Australia (#34 will be as well, in case you're wondering).

Luckily, I have some amazing friends here in Australia! Not just in Perth either. I didn't want to face it alone, which wouldn't have been a problem with all the lovely people in Perth who invited me over to share their holidays. But with the office closed for 2 weeks (haha America!), I wanted to travel. Hence the trip to Melbourne (see previous blog), and then to Tasmania to see my friends Don and Jenni. Let me tell you a little story:

In 2008-09 the American economy had a major downturn, those were some tough times. I survived the cuts at work, but things still weren't great even after all the downsizing (and it was pretty hard long hours for the remaining). The firm offered voluntary sabbaticals to those still employed - many law and consulting firms offered this as a way to retain talent but cut costs during a slow time. (I thought sabbaticals were just for professors to write books?) Despite many family members and co-workers thinking I was crazy, I decided to do it. When else in my life would I be able to take an extended period off to travel while still getting a (small) income? (This was before I moved to Australia, mind you. This stuff just doesn't happen in the US.) So I took 8 weeks off, paid at 20%, with a guarantee of my job upon my return. July and August 2009 were a great time - spent with friends, family, my nephew, lots of time in Wisconsin on the boat, lots of gym time, in a wedding in Philadelphia, visiting NYC.....and most significantly, I booked a last minute trip to Spain and Portugal. 

In Spain, I met Don and Jenni, these crazy Tasmanians who were just a blast. We got along splendidly and made jokes about them setting me up with one of their sons. We also talked about how I wanted to work abroad, specifically in Australia but that it hadn't come to fruition (I had been in global mobility talks with Australia when the GFC first hit). In a random twist of fate, Don and Jenni had JUST met a man while vacationing in Morocco who also works for my company in Melbourne! We had a blast for those few weeks and have kept in touch ever since. And I got that guy's (Peter) contact details. I kept in touch with him via email, and he contacted me about a job in Perth a year later. Timing is sometimes bad but forces your hand and to decide what you really want - at that exact time, I had just accepted another job offer and was supposed to start within the month. I almost didn't respond to the Australia job, but I couldn't let the opportunity pass and ended up working it in my favor (although burned a big bridge with the other firm when I rescinded....oh well) and here we are. Isn't life just funny - although it wasn't funny at the time, it was extremely stressful! And it all happened really, really quickly. On a related note, I finally met Peter in person in Melbourne - and I paid for his well-deserved lunch!

That was a long intro into my blog about Tassie. But it's a good story about hard things turning out well, timing seeming bad but being good, exploiting tiny opportunities, small decisions having big outcomes on the direction of your life - that last idea is what the compass tattoo on my ankle is about, if you didn't know. So now you see why I had to go visit Don and Jenni! They are the link that brought it all together. So I boarded my flight from Melbourne and flew across the Bass Straight to Tasmania. More to come about the trip in my next post!

Don and Jenni in Spain 2009

Mad about Melbourne

In December (2011), I finally made my long-awaited trip to the city everyone kept telling me I'd love. Melbourne - which is pronounced "Mel-bin" by these crazy Aussies (why? I still don't know. Jason Bourne would assassinate anyone who tried calling him "Bin") - is known as the cultural capital of Australia. It is the second most populous city after Sydney, and there's a bit of rivalry there going back a long while.

Now before I dive right into all the interesting things about Melbourne, I need to explain why this city fascinated me so much. The average American, having not really researched Australia before, probably has not heard of Melbourne. Sorry Melbourne, but it's true. To most Americans and I dare say a lot of other outsiders, Australia has one major city with a weirdly shaped opera house (which we're not sure if they actually do opera there), and a cool bridge (but not as cool as the San Fran Bridge), that hosts awesome fireworks on New Year's Eve. We watch the Sydney fireworks with the interest of "someday maybe I'll go there", literally HOURS before even getting the beer or showering for our own NYE parties. We think that the Great Barrier Reef is right off the coast of Sydney, that there are kangaroos everywhere, and that the rest of the country is a red desert full of giant insects that will kill us - with three exceptions:

1. In the middle of the country there is a massive red rock in the desert sort of like Stone Henge.
2. There must also be a swamp where both Crocodile Dundee and Steve Irwin taunted crocs and snakes.
3. We have no idea where or how this is possible in a hot desert, but there is also that mountain that the "Man From Snowy River" rode down.

So imagine my surprise when I found out that the second biggest city (4.1M) is Melbourne (which still gets a laugh every time I say it wrong), a culturally significant metropolis and the capital of the state of Victoria (there are states in Australia? another thing most Americans don't know.) Melbourne was founded in 1835 by settlers from Tasmania (then called Van Diemen's Land....read more about Tasmania in my next blog). It had a major gold rush in the 1850's that pushed its population over Sydney's, and made it the center of commerce and one of the world's largest and wealthiest cities. The population of Australia TRIPLED during this time. Many settlers came from Europe (notably Ireland) and China to try their hand at finding gold. It was also the seat of government when Australia became federated in 1901, until 1927 (when the capital moved to purpose built Canberra, in an attempt to make both / neither Sydney or Melbourne happy).

It's such a cool and vibrant city that whenever I told anyone at work that I was visiting, they got nervous that I would want to transfer. Then they'd say, "The weather is so crazy there! It's so cold, oh yeah you like cooler weather, you'll like it! It gets all types of weather in just one hour! The coffee is SO much better there! ohh the shopping is great!" It seems like Perth has a bit of a crush on Melbourne. They talk about it way more than, say, Sydney.

I was lucky enough to have a friend from Perth who had recently moved to Melbourne, and she and her roommate were awesome enough to let me crash in their apartment. But first, upon my arrival, we spent the weekend driving along the Great Ocean Road from Melbourne to Lorne. It is a really beautiful drive along the Southern Ocean (and a bit harrowing for the driver who doesn't really get to enjoy the sights).

Along the Great Ocean Road

Great Ocean Road near Lorne

The rest of the week, I explored Melbourne and it lived up to all the hype. Laneways of coffee houses, open air cafes, artwork, trams, shops, shoes, lunches, the Royal Botanic Gardens, Federation Square, Queen Victoria night market, great restaurants, cool places for drinks at night. Melbourne is filled with all these different neighborhoods that each have their own personality (Fitzroy, Richmond, Toorak, Prahan, St Kilda, etc.) I went to the top of the Eureka sky deck (88 stories up) and looked down over the city. I hadn't been in such a tall skyscraper since leaving Chicago. On a beautiful day I took a tram down to St. Kilda to the beach. One day another friend (who moved from Perth - pattern?) and I drove out to the Dandenongs (a low mountain range with beautiful forests of Mountain Ash trees). Back in the city, I walked around the MCG (Melbourne Cricket Grounds), which is by far the most famous stadium in Australia. Both cricket and Aussie Rules Football ("footy") are played there. Melbourne (or Melbs, as people call it), is a major sporting city - cricket, horse racing (the famous Melbourne Cup), the Australian Open, and get this - TEN of the 18 AFL teams are based here. Which, as a Chicagoan for 7 years, I ask - are you crazy? Even the Cubs / White Sox rivalry was enough to cause problems!

Melbourne, overall, was worth the wait and I hope to spend some more time there. Who's in?

The famed MCG

Leafy streets with a downtown tram

One of many Laneways

Flinders Street Station

Melbourne skyline from across the Yarra River

Melbourne from the Eureka Skydeck

St Kilda's Beach on a nice day